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絲綢文化丨Paradise Mill——英國麥克爾斯菲爾德的絲綢工業(yè)遺址
來源:世界絲綢網
作者:世界絲綢網
時間:2022-08-17 10:47:31

Macclesfield is located in Cheshire in the northwest of Britain. It is famous for its silk industry in history and is known as the "Silk Capital" of Britain. Macclesfield was once the beating heart of Britain’s silk trade, the western end of the Silk Road. The 19th century was the heyday of the town's silk industry. In 1832, the number of silk workshops in the town reached 71. Today, silk culture is well inherited and protected in Macclesfield.

麥克爾斯菲爾德位于英國西北部的柴郡,歷史上以絲綢業(yè)著稱,被譽為英國的“絲綢之都”。麥克爾斯菲爾德曾是英國絲綢貿易的心臟,絲綢之路的西端。19世紀是小鎮(zhèn)絲綢業(yè)的鼎盛時期,1832年全鎮(zhèn)絲綢工坊數(shù)量達到71家。如今,絲綢文化在麥克爾斯菲爾德得到很好的傳承與保護。

Paradise Mill, Located next door to The Silk Museum, a listed former industrial building. The present Upper Mill was built for silk manufacture around 1824. In 1862 during a slump in trade, the owner John Bagshaw, a cotton manufacturer, pulled down the neighbouring 18th century mill and built Lower Mill, which we know as Paradise Mill today.

Paradise Mill坐落于麥克爾斯菲爾德絲綢博物館旁邊,是一座受保護的工業(yè)遺址。約1824年,高層廠房為絲綢制造業(yè)而建造。1862年,在貿易不景氣期間,棉花制造商所有者John Bagshaw拆除了鄰近的18世紀廠房,建造了現(xiàn)在的低層廠房,就是現(xiàn)在所熟知的Paradise Mill。

During the second half of the 19th century, the mills were used by several silk and cotton manufacturers. In 1870, David Hooton and John Hockenhull, who already occupied the second floor for cotton weaving, bought the mills, and it was at this time that the term Paradise Mills was first used. By now the cotton industry in Macclesfield was declining, and from 1891 the mills were used exclusively for silk. One of the more notable tenants was James Kershaw, whose firm was well known for the richness of design and variety of fabrics; “He produced nothing but new style, and in less than six months had at least 100 looms in full work”, using new modern machinery. By 1891 the mills were exclusively used for silk manufacturing.

19世紀下半葉,這些工廠被多家絲綢和棉花制造商使用。1870年,已經占據(jù)二樓從事棉織工作的David Hooton和John Hockenhull購買了這些工廠,也正是這個時候,“Paradise Mills”一詞首次被使用。后來,英國麥克爾斯菲爾德的棉花產業(yè)逐漸衰退,1891年起,工廠改為專門生產絲綢。最著名的租戶之一是James Kershaw,他的公司以豐富的設計和面料品種而聞名?!斑@里只生產新款式,在不到6個月的時間里,至少有100臺織布機全部投入使用”,使用新的現(xiàn)代機器。至此,從1891年,這些工廠專門用于絲綢制造。

In 1912, Arthur Cartwright and Percy Sheldon, both designers and from families traditionally connected with silk, formed a partnership and rented rooms at Paradise Mills. By 1920 they bought both mills for £6,000. As well as having old looms repaired and new ones made, they bought six second-hand looms and Jacquard machines from J & F Jackson of Sutton Mills in Macclesfield. By the 1930s some 70 looms were in use on the top floor of Lower Paradise Mill, where there is sufficient headroom in the roof space. Cartwright and Sheldon remained owners and principal occupants until 1981 when the firm went into liquidation. In 1983 work began to restore the machinery to working order, with the idea of opening a working museum where silk could again be woven on the old handlooms.

1912年,設計師Arthur Cartwright和Percy Sheldon都出身于絲綢世家,他們達成合作關系并在Paradise Mills租用了房間。1920年,以6000英鎊的價格買下了這兩座工廠。除了修理舊織機和現(xiàn)有的新織機外,他們還從麥克爾斯菲爾德的薩頓工廠購買了6臺二手織機和提花機。到1930年代,大約70臺織機在低層廠房的頂層使用,那里的屋頂空間有足夠的凈空高度。Cartwright和Sheldon一直是這里的所有者和主要居住者,1981年,公司進入清算階段。1983年,這里再次恢復機器的工作狀態(tài),其想法是開設一個工作博物館,可以再次在舊手搖織機上編織絲綢。

(esilk.net聲明:本網登載此文旨在傳遞更多行業(yè)資訊,文章內容僅供參考。)